Berluti men’s fashion, by Alessandro Sartori

The state-of-the-art fabrics at Berluti had to be felt to be believed. Alessandro Sartori made liberal use of pre-washed, treated leather with the texture and appearance of waxed cotton. His cashmere felt was ‘punched’ with angora and alpaca, which gave it a revolutionary new consistency. Berluti’s solid foundation stone of grey suits, dark coats and spiffy tuxes moved beautifully with the models. They possessed that perfect blend of the sporty and the luxe, built with a level of complexity never achieved before. [1]

Nominated in 2011 as artistic director of Berluti, Alessandro Sartori creates shoes and ready-to-wear collections, bringing new life to a timeless style. Like the founders, Alessandro possesses and is possessed by the desire and the gift to create, a desire that has been with him since his earliest years. As a child, he adored sharing time with his mother in her dress-making workshop. The warm fragrance of fine materials, the squeak of the scissors, the treasure trove of offcuts, all contributed to his creative imagination. The latter paired with disciplined technique and poetic elegance are his keywords. From pattern cutting to the finishing of a buttonhole, no detail escapes his eye. For Berluti, he creates collections that blend rigorous control with fantasy, a distillation of the soul and spirit of the House.

[1] Ref. http://www.wallpaper.com/v2/commercial/wbespoke/design-awards-2014-preview#LStYwwTSmduxOvDP.99

Håndvaerk, everyday essentials

Premium T-shirts and basics are a luxury ; if you don't try it, you won't know what you're missing, but once you do it's hard to go back to anything else. With that in mind, the plush and expertly crafted sweatshirts, henley shirts, T-shirts and underwear from the recently launched fine basics purveyor Håndvaerk may be the last you ever want to wear. Minimalist design, hand-picked materials and meticulous attention to detail in both design and fit make these basics long-lasting and aesthetically pleasing. [1]

Håndværk is the brainchild of a husband and wife team who share a passion for textiles and saw a need for high quality basics. Esteban Saba co founded håndvaerk with his wife Petra Brichnacova and they set out to create a lifestyle brand that redefines luxury, grounded on the essence of quality, clean minimal design, the finest natural materials, and time honored quality craftsmanship. Each item is handcrafted in small production runs in family-owned and operated workshops, maintaining the elegant artistry and grace that is inherent in traditional high-quality craftsmanship. Håndværk is the Danish word that stands for hand crafted or artisanal, which inspires the duo to maintain the focus on what sets them apart, how they make their products.

[1] Ref. http://www.coolhunting.com/style/handvaerk-luxury-basics.php

ACRONYM® technical garments

ACRONYM® was founded in 1994 by Michaela Sachenbacher and Errolson Hugh as an independent design agency with a focus on the unification of style and technology in apparel. Acronym has been instrumental in the emergence of a new generation of technical apparel products and users. Projects such as the Analog MD Clone jacket (one of TIME magazine's 'Coolest Inventions of 2002') and collaborations with com-panies including KHS Tactical Equipment Germany (equipment manufacturers for the German Special Forces), and W.L. Gore and Associates (the inventors of Gore-Tex) demonstrate Acronym's capability in both advanced styling and functionality. Early 2002 saw the launch of the limited edition 'Acronym Kit-1' and with it, the launch of the Acronym house label.

Unwilling to make any compromises, the brand continues to innovate and produce some of the most impressive technical garments available on the market. Having built a steady following over the years, ACRONYM sticks to its core values and once again presents a solid collection of premium clothing for Fall/Winter 2013. The video is produced in the same manner as the entire line – simple and very focused on functionality. Little details and a tight set of new silhouettes are added each season, changing the look just enough to keep things classic yet exciting. [1]

[1] Ref. http://www.highsnobiety.com/2013/10/01/acronym-fall-winter-2013-collection-video-lookbook/

SuitSupply and the old Masters

SuitSupply is a men’s fashion brand founded in 2000 by Fokke de Jong in Amsterdam, that now has 44 stores in 10 different countries. SuitSupply products are made using Italian fabrics from the Biella region. Their garments are made using traditional methods of craftsmanship, meaning the inside of the garment, the "structure" that gives it form, is made of cotton reinforced with horse and camel hair, resulting in a natural tailored fit. SuitSupply is well known for their photography and campaigns. To celebrate the reopening of the Dutch National Gallery, SuitSupply and Amsterdam's Rijksmuseum have formed a collaboration for a unique campaign series that will span two seasons. The rich colors and textures go beautifully with the classic paintings from old masters, merging styles and clothing with the art background and era. See the complete series featured here.

Swaine Adeney Brigg

Swaine Adeney Brigg is one of London's reknown makers of equestrian & leather goods since 1750. It is a luxury lifestyle store for locals and business travellers alike. The history of the illustrious London luxury goods maker known today as Swaine Adeney Brigg as so goes back over 250 years. They've been supplying various items to Britain's Royal Family for 200 of them, and as those monarchs tend to be a traditional lot, the firm in its philosophy has basically remained unchanged in all that time.

In the late 18th century, Royal tradesmen in Britain began displaying the Royal Arms on their premises and stationery. Queen Victoria ensured Royal Warrants gained the prestige they enjoy today. During her 64 year reign, the Queen and her family granted more than 2000 Royal Warrants, eight times as many as the Queen's uncle, George IV. They included Swaine Adeney and Brigg; both names still hold Royal Warrants today. In 1893, Thomas Brigg and Sons received its first Royal Appointment from Her Majesty Queen Victoria and became the first umbrella maker ever to be honoured with an appointment. Further Royal Appointments were also bestowed by Her Majesty Queen Victoria and by His Majesty Edward VI.

Swaine Adeney Brigg is the luxury lifestyle store beloved by business travellers and connoisseurs throughout the world for leather goods, umbrellas, hats and other luxury items. In their own words : "As English as the Eton Collar, as iconic as the Bowler Hat." In the meantime, the following is film footage of their East Anglian workshops ; home of their famous leather and umbrella artisans.

INAISCE aetherial quest

Invoking an anthropological spirit and aesthetic, New York-based designer Jona transcends the landscape of couture through his avant-garde label, InAisce. Imbued in signature hues of nuanced greys and arctic neutrals, InAisce aims to illustrate the ephemeral flux of nature and self in collections infused with a folkloric blend of tribal nomad and stoic sentinel.

InAisce began as a men's collection in 2009, emerging from Jona's desire to construct clothes for himself. The line's sinuous draping and streamlined silhouettes, however, effortlessly melded into androgynous geometry, garnishing a unisex following and establishing InAisce as a transcendent force. Blurring the lines between sartorial ingenuity and mythical intrigue, InAisce explores "homelessness" as a transient quest in search of one's origins with "Seeking Aether," the brand's upcoming Fall/Winter 2013/14 collection, comprised of collaborations with artisan Jason Ross of Artemas Quibble and shoe designer, Alessio Zero. Reflecting the ethos of the collection is South Sudanese refugee-cum-model Ger Duany, whose own epic journey makes him a natural fit. Read the rest of the interview on CoolHunting here.

Mens style guides : visualizations from around the web

If you are into closely following directions then these visualisations may give you an idea of what to wear, and when, as well as what not to wear. Honestly however, personal style is … well personal, and thruthfully, apart from some general pointers that you could follow, there is no absolute in what you wear or how you mix and match. This is why it is called a "personal" style.

Hence, the visualizations offered below, are more for ENTERTAINMENT purposes, than actual "commandments". Look through them and have a smile. Some of what you will read you will find OK and applicable, others are just for laughs.

First is s "50 Mistakes Dudes Make While Getting Dressed", from Complex magazine. Their wording "It's not just clothes that make the man, it's knowing the rules well, and then choosing which ones you want to break. Not all of these tips will work across all body types, but we're sure you'll be a better-dressed guy after looking at this than if you had never come across it at all. It's a tough world out there, so we might as well look impeccable while surviving in it." Pretty long list, but nicely visualized.

Dead simple suit and shoes pairing guide. Does not say anything about the socks. Pair wisely.

Color match what you wear with your complexion

Primer’s Visual Guide to Understanding Common Suit Features, available here. Concise and precise.

Again from Complex magazine, we get this Infographic "Which Men's Style Blog Should You Be Reading?" And if you need the URL for your results. They offer also a handy link list, should you decide to browse more.

Ever wondered the difference between open and closed lacing? How about the etiquette when it comes to shoe embellishments? Or if you should really match your socks with your trousers? From boat shoes to bluchers and monk straps to moccasins, become fluent in the language of footwear with The Discerning Gentleman’s Guide to Shoes. Read more

TieDiy - every knot you need to know

Bespoke umbrellas

Bespoke umbrellas are kind of long forgotten items. Nowadays, they are the kind of thing you get when you already own a number of bespoke shoes, predated by a number of bespoke shirts and suits.

To commission a bespoke job, a customer begins by selecting the wood that will be used for both the stick and the handle. Customers can choose walnut, hickory, beech, cedar, oak, rosewood, apple tree, elm, ash tree, red chestnut (with or without rind), cherry wood, wild cherry wood, ebony, hazelnut tree, bamboo, and sugar cane. The process of getting both the stick and the handle to form out of a single piece of a wood is so laborious (involving steam, skill, and time) that it can take about six months to get it to the right shape. The result is a piece of wood that is both flexible and sturdy, and contains no breaks or cuts. If the customer likes a bit more detailing, the handle can be braided with leather or some kind of exotic material.  [1]

For the canopy a blend of cotton, silk, and wool is used. Teflon is applied in order to waterproof the fabric, and a little bit of extra fabric is hand sewn into the pockets that grip the canopy to the spokes in order to make them sturdier. Any fabric pattern can be chosen - solid, regimental, tartan, pin dots, etc. It’s bespoke, so really the customer’s imagination is the only limit. Once the fabric is chosen, it is cut into trapezoids, ironed, and then sewn together.

Bespoke umbrellas makers :

James Smith & Sons, London, UK, website here.

Francesco Maglia, Milano, IT, website here.

Michel Heurtault, Paris, FR, website here.

Pasotti ombrelli, Castellucchio, IT, website here.

A list of distinct umbrella makers worldwide, can be found here.

Should you wish to explore more on the subject :

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2008/02/good-honest-umbrella.html

http://www.thedapperslowth.com/wordpress/?p=284

http://hipparis.com/2010/01/30/artisan-umbrellas-from-parisian-couturier-michel-hertault/

[1] Ref. http://dieworkwear.com/post/3393383282/bespoke-umbrellas

Gold edition

If you are into gold, there are certain items that you could use to style or accessorize yourself with : a gold watch, a gold ring, a gold pen, even a gold tie. Wear and use them over special occasions, or maybe on a daily basis. But what about the following ? This collection of items is not intended as a promotion ; rather a brief showcase of what is available out there, under the common theme of “gold”. In order of appearance :

Dolce&Gabbana Gold edition eyewear

Majesty Prestigio Gold Premium golf clubs

Nines Gold tactical 9mm earphones

Gold&Co Gold iphone 5

Crystal Rocked Gold plated Dr Dre Beats Studio headphones

Paul Breguette Gold watch mechanism bespoke cufflinks

Craftsman Gold wrenches set

Leatherman Gold Multi-Tool

Nikon Coolpix S-100 gold edition

Elm Company Gold Denim baseball cap

Paco Rabanne 1 million fragnance

Buckyballs gold edition

Dolce&Gabbana Gold Edition is an exclusive line of sun and prescription glasses in a limited edition where elegant glamorous style meets the luxury of the finest most sophisticated materials. Key elements of this line are extreme attention to details and finishes, the use of gold and latest generation lenses.

Glasses in 18-carat gold-plated metal, with both prescription and sun lenses, the latter in polarised glass. A mix of different materials for the temples creates a unique effect that is further enhanced by the Dolce&Gabbana logo engraved in the same colour. The DG monogram stands out on a miniscule metal plaque on the temple ends.

A certificate of authenticity comes with each pair of glasses attesting to the originality, design and quality and the use of 18-carat gold.

More info here

Being one of the leading manufacturers in the golf equipment industry, Maruman’s 38 year manufacturing process, based on years of R&Dand e cutting edge technology, are applied to bring to the fore the state-of-the-art MAJESTY PRESTIGIO Gold Premium. From the grinding of the forged club head to the assembling of the club, the process is carried out by by Maruman’s group of professional craftsmen. They are devoted to a single goal – the realization of all golfers’ dreams “Overwhelming long distance capability”.

More info here

NINES GLD : Tactical 9mm earphones with 3-Button mic.

The NINES are rooted in performance audio. Engineered from the inside out to offer tight, low, thundering bass; and clear smooth highs for warm and enveloping sound.

Machined from a single piece of copper alloy housings featuring Kevlar®-reinforced cloth cables for un-matched style and durability. With the addition of in-line 3 button suppressor [M]ic Control to stay in touch while in motion.

Available in brilliant deep Gold titanium-coated finish. Includes ear-hooks, ballistic nylon carrying case, cable clip and 1 set of replacement S,M,L Silicone Hollow Points.

Volume control compatible with Apple products. Single button functionality compatible with Android OS MP3, smartphones and tablet devices.

More info here

The world’s most popular smartphone just got a whole lot more stylish. The gold-plated version features solid T304 aircraft grade stainless steel housing that’s laser-cut for a precise fit.

All buttons and bezels are hand-polished to a mirror finish then plated in a Multi layer process topped off with 24KT gold to ensure end-to-end coverage and worry-free durability. Each limited-edition item is individually numbered to ensure exclusivity. There are no factory locks on our devices, which means they can be used anywhere in the world. 

More info here

Crystal Rocked has produced the worlds first 24ct Gold plated Dr Dre Beats Studio headphones called the “COLLECTORS SERIES”. After 6 months of development Crystal Rocked has now produced a limited edition range of only 50 pieces of the 24ct Gold plated headphones with 10 pieces reserved exclusively for Harrods Department store, London.

On purchase of the headphones you will find that they are presented in a custom made walnut box which is engraved with the headphone serial number and manufacture number 1-50 on the lid.

More info here

Paul Breguette is a division of the Ebel Watch Company, which rests at the very apex of fine luxury watches. It is a touch larger than an actual button, making it an ideal accoutrement for anyone wishing to go out in high style.

More info here

Guys always love tools, and although getting wrenches is almost always useful (they get left and lost everywhere) it's hardly exciting -- getting more wrenches is kinda like getting more socks: oh yay. But these wrenches are something else altogether: available from Sears, this Craftsman 4 pc. set of full polish reversible ratcheting standard wrenches is fully plated in 22k gold. Set comes in an engraved walnut display box and is adorned with the 80th anniversary logo. A truly unique luxury gift for the guy who's got everything

More info here

Gold plated and custom modified Leatherman Multi-Tool. Damascus steel is the ultimate combination of beauty and functionality. It's been used as early as 300BC to provide strength to metals through a labor intensive cold working process. Our Damascus steel has at least 416 layers by the time it is finished, creating a very hard, durable, and beautiful blade. These blades are made in the USA from start to finish. This tool has been outfitted with a Damascus steel main blade and clad in hardened 24k gold.

More info here

Whether you're headed out for a night on the town with friends or a quick weekend getaway, you'll want to take the Nikon COOLPIX S100 everywhere you go. Ultra-slim and ultra-chic, it offers the features you want in a camera that fits your style. Its 16.0-MP CMOS sensor lets you shoot vibrant images and Full HD (1080p) movies even in low lighting conditions, and its huge, high-resolution 3.5-inch OLED Touch Screen makes viewing and sharing a breeze. The S100 is the camera to be seen with while you're making the scene.

More info here

ELMCOMPANY‘s Gold Denim baseball cap is a part of their Spring ’08 Fitted Collection. The fitted is constructed of a rugged lightweight Dark Navy demin, with Gold brocade fabric underbill and lining. This cap is a follow up to the ELM’s Flocked denim fitted relased in the ’07 Holiday Collection.

More info here

The house of Paco Rabanne's fragrance for men is announced as a fresh and sensual blend of notes, with glittery shine of gold, for which creator Paco Rabanne says the following: "In all civilizations and religions gold has always managed to seduce people".Gold is all around us: in architecture, design, jewelry, clothes, accessories,fashion...It is noticeable and respected worldwide and it possesses divine notes. The bottle of this edition for men is created in golden nuances. It represents power, wealth, luxury, durability...The perfume was inspired by Paco Rabanne's metallic fashion and created in cooperation with three famous noses for perfumes.  1 Million arrived in August 2008.

More info here

Buckyballs launched 3 new Executive Editions. The new editions are GOLD, These new colors will offer you make more cool shapes and patterns. You can mixture balls with different colors and make more cool patterns or just make original Buckyballs cube. Each Buckyballs set comes with 216 rare earth magnets that can be molded and stuck together in whatever shape your heart desires

More info here

Men in black : wearing black and caring for it

In color psychology, black means power and control. Black is intimidating, possessive and unapproachable. It radiates authority, but can fear in the process. Black implies self-control and discipline, independence and a strong will, and giving an impression of authority and power. People who like black may be conventional, conservative and serious, or they may think of themselves as being sophisticated or very dignified. Whatever the case may be, black suits men to a separate personality. Wearing black makes men look sophisticated and sexy ; dark, dangerous and mysterious.

OK, now that you went ahead and got the black pieces in your wardrobe, how do you care for them, so that after some washes they do not fade ? Well you can start with the general rule that if the piece is expensive, delicate or hard to handle in house (ie a coat or jacket) you would better have it dry cleaned. Note to the launder to not use bleach or other chemicals for spot cleaning, unless you trust them. Always aerate your clothes. Unless you work in harsh or high in odor environments, your clothes should not get dirty as quickly as you think. If you work in an office that is even more true. Aerate your clothes, before subjecting them to a wash cycle. Since we mostly comprehend dirt from the smell of a garment, chances are that after half a days aeration, you may avoid it. Needless to mention that clothes absorb our perspiration and other body odors. The higher (in rate or quantity) those are, the sooner your clothes will need cleaning.

For all the rest of your black items, use your washing machine and tumbler. First turn the clothes inside out. This prevents some fading by reducing friction (slightly) on the external areas of cloth. Turning the item inside out really helps if the article is black jeans. Place black clothes in the washing machine, and only wash a few items at a time to prevent the clothes from rubbing together too much. Alternatively, you can hand wash each item separately, but this is time-consuming. Fill the machine with cold water. Warm or hot water can cause dyes to run, fading black clothes faster. Add vinegar to the water to aid in keeping the dyes from running. Use ¼ cup of white vinegar per load. In general, to hold colors in fabrics, which tend to run, soak them for a few minutes in white distilled vinegar before washing. Add a mild, liquid laundry detergent intended for color fabrics. Choose a detergent made specifically for dark clothing. Wash the clothes on a gentle cycle.

Dry black clothing in a dryer, keeping the clothes inside out, on low heat. You can also hang them to dry, as long as you do so indoors away from sunlight (as sunlight fades clothing). If you hang them outside to dry, then keep always inside out.

Occasionally, you can have a garment dyed to its original black color. If you own a really expensive piece that has lost its crisp color, this might be a good option. Nevertheless good black starts with the initial purchase. Look for high quality black clothes that have been acid dyed or reactive dyed. Extra fine cotton and silk yarn hold color really well. Wools are always a deeper black than cottons (wool holds dye better) which is why when buying black trousers, sweaters and of course suits, you’d stick with wool (or coolwool). Wool doesn't fade like cotton does over time. On the other hand, cotton dress shirts that have lycra in them, hold dark color better than the plain ones.

No matter what the fabric, shades of black differ so be careful when putting an all black outfit together. For example, when pairing a black shirt with black trousers, the black shirt might have a purple cast while your black trousers have a brown cast. These differences are subtle, but important. As with any ensemble, it's important to mix different fabrics and textures. For example, a heavily textured sweater combined with smooth pants looks dashing as does a plain merino wool sweater with tonal striped pants.

Check out also this article in GQ :

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2012-08/30/black-tie-guide-suit-shirt-how-to

and this “Wear-all-black” from FashionBeans :

http://www.fashionbeans.com/2012/how-to-wear-the-all-black-outfit/